Spencer Williams, Contributor
Having eaten at this Japanese restaurant several times, I think that although it's not quite up to what you get in the Far East, it certainly tops what has been served at Kingston's East over the past six months.
Cocoro is situated in the Mayfair Hotel, hidden behind West Kings House Close. And although it's not as hip as Market Place, it has its own signature of intimacy, which might appeal to those who aren't looking to be 'seen' by the who's who of the capital city. For starters, I haven't come across as many Japanese people, speaking in their mother tongue, anywhere else in Jamaica.
Cons
Cocoro is not without faults. If the bathrooms were your first point of contact, you'd be hesitant to dine there, but this is true of several eateries we have all been to in Jamaica.
The staff is friendly, and some have a cheeky sense of humour, as I noted when one commented on my appetite for saki (rice wine)! In my defence, I am of the size that can handle a little more than most. However, there are times when I want to throttle someone, because they are clueless when it comes to the menu. Will the chef please bring them up to speed on what each dish actually is? Perhaps encourage them to taste all the dishes so that they can be more descriptive in their explanations to inexperienced diners.
As for their clearing etiquette! Certainly one is not supposed to leave the main course plates on the table when taking the dessert order, let alone allowing them to remain throughout the eating of one's sweets. However, the ice cream and chocolate cake are so awful, that I wonder whether the waiters figure that the distracting remnants of our meal would prevent us from noticing just how terrible they are.
Pro
If only two of you are dining, ask to be seated at one of the coffee tables on the veranda. A wooden sofa, where you can get cosy, is at each, and provided you don't mind the informality of dining this way, it's more atmospheric than inside the dining room.
The edamame (soy beans), with enough salt to bring out their flavour, are the perfect taste teaser with which to commence the evening, along with a carafe of hot saki or a pot of green tea. When sharing with companions, I like to order everything together, and dig in as food starts arriving. A good mishmash for me is raw fish, some interesting rolls (no cream cheese though ... that's taking the Western influences a little too far), and a couple hot meat dishes.
The 'Full Moon' platter of sashimi has the standard selection of tuna, salmon, yellowtail, snapper and shrimp, which aren't bad at all. The a la carte menu is limited, but better to be good rather than adventurous and not! One gets more choice at East, but the quality there has been extremely disappointing of late.
Satisfying
The rolls here are fresh, filling and delicious. The Volcano roll is perfect for those who are intimidated by lone pieces of uncooked flesh. The spicy tuna and scallion filling, wrapped in nori seaweed and rice, and topped with a smooth slice of raw tuna, is dipped into the spicy sauce that decorates the plate. On its own, it makes for a satisfyingly light lunch. The caterpillar, which consists of unagi (cooked eel) and avocado, atop a huge fried shrimp, lettuce, tomato and scallion roll, cannot be eaten successfully with chopsticks! To appreciate the combination of it all, grow a bigger mouth - or use your knife and fork.
The Kimchi Pork is quite simply, heavenly. Such tender slices and the aromatic gravy is absorbed by the steamed tofu and udon noodles which are floating in it. If you are more of a a carnivore? This is your dish, my friends. This is the hidden treasure which can't be found under the sea!
Cocoro, 4 West King's House Road, St Andrew, Tel: 929-0970. Opening hours: Tuesday-Sunday noon-10:00 p.m. Look to spend: $140-$680 on appetisers, $400-$1150 on rolls, $850-$1650 on set sushi or sashimi platters, $650-$980 on hot dishes.
