Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
I was craving for delicious brown-stew liver. - photos by Rosemary Parkinson
Having driven the south coast road from Kingston to Negril, the thought of a Negril sunset forced me into Margaritaville for a drink, and then another. Continuing on to Montego Bay therefore, had to wait until morning. I decided to seek succour from Couples/Swept Away.
Now, Swept Away has a new look and a grand one, so walking into their lobby was a breathtaking pleasure. The reception I got from Ayesha and Taneshe at the front desk could also be described as perfect. When one is tired, there's nothing like getting warm, friendly smiles and quick, efficient service. Naturally, the first thing I did once in my room was: (a) turn the air condonditioner to 16 degrees and (b) fill the tub with extremely hot water for a good hour's relaxing soak.
It had been a hectic few days between Montego Bay and Kingston over the Yuletide season. And, as life would have it, I lay down for a rest, and woke up to the last bang of fireworks - too late for my favourite happening; the countdown to a new year. When the body decides to stop, it just does. And that is why, knowing that this soak and this particular night at Swept Away could turn out to be my last chance to chill, I took my time. Ahhh ... time. How this defeats us! Before I knew it, the clock screamed 'dinner'. I forced myself into some clothes and went in search of some.
SWEPT AWAY, INDEED
I headed to the Patois Restaurant. No one knew where I was dining and this would be an opportunity to taste test! I smiled at the menu's explanation for the word Patois: 'Patois is the Jamaican native dialect which is only spoken informally by Jamaicans. Patois is a combination of broken English, French, Spanish and native African languages.' All headings for the various courses were written in same with its English counterpart: 'Stata/Starters, Salaad/Salad, Antray/Entrée, Side Orda/Sides' and so on. Sweet. I am so thrilled when the Caribbean dialect is showcased. My 'stata' was island spice rare seared beef with mango rum chutney, basil feta and mashed green bananas, which was so lovely.
Jerk seasoning
The 'quick' recipe is: Cut tenderloin in four-ounce pieces. Season with salt and jerk seasoning. Grill and slice thinly. Boil green bananas in milk, mash 'till creamy. Chop mango chutney, mix with a little rum. Crumble feta, mix with chopped basil. Place mashed bananas at the bottom of a small dish, add sliced beef, finish with chutney and sprinkle with feta (see photo). The 'salaad' was fried goat cheese, garden greens, caramelised onions, tomatoes, cucumber, herbs, garlic and honey dressing. The goat cheese was rolled into a ball, dipped in flour, egg, breadcrumbs, deep fried to a beautiful golden colour and placed carefully on the top of the really fresh salad. It was delicious; the caramelised onions just topping off the garlic and honey dressing.
For my 'antray', I chose the rum ginger and chili roasted pork ribs. Marinated in chopped ginger, garlic, onions, honey, lime juice, cumin, paprika, chili powder and rum, these very healthy ingredients made the choice easy! Ginger is good for the digestion and garlic is great for the heart. Honey improves the immune system, lime gives Vitamin C, cumin and paprika would mash up dem carcinogens and chili powder, perfect for detox. The rum? That would naturally just soothe. And, that all too often denigrated pork? It is now being touted as the 'the good white meat'! Is it not hilarious how every year some food guru decides what is good and what is bad for us, what was good suddenly now bad, and vice versa?
For dessert I went for the rum chocolate custard tartlet in almond cookie crust; it floored me. Talk about perfect, creamy, smooth, wicked chocolate. Another healthy choice! No laughing, we all know how good chocolate is for you. Or was that last year?
The quality service, the great food, the colourful ambience of the patio-type restaurant surrounded by flora, the open kitchen in the middle of it all (very, very in-vogue to see chefs and cooks at work) made me feel simply spiffy. Is that not what it's all about? As I understand it, Nancy Beckham formerly of Tensing Penn, is the one to thank for all the new interiors.
'MI Want liver fi breakfass'
For days I had been in search of a liver breakfast - all through Kingston and even on my journey towards Negril (by the way, nothing drives me crazier than restaurants that advertise a dish that is not available. Juicy Beef, please, if you say you serve liver then, have liver. I went to three branches that purported to have liver only to hear: "Not today, liver is only sometime". Please state when you have a particular dish if it's not a regular happening or, leave it off).
Imagine my joy when the breakfast buffet included brown stew liver with green banana and callaloo on the side. And, believe you me, there was a rush for that typically Jamaican 'breakfass'. Caught the words of a guest to friends: "Ya awl better run quick for the liver, it's reelly disappearing fast." This confirmed that local is what de people dem want!
"The happy life lies in the tranquility of the mind." (Cicero)
Dessert was definitely a fine way to end the evening.