Spencer Williams, Contributor
Although there aren't any traditional 'Chippy' shops, (restaurants set up to sell only 'fish and chips') in Jamaica, some establishments have added it to their menus.
To get a close rendition of the real thing, my choices were narrowed down to three fairly popular lunch-time places in Kingston: Cuddy'z in New Kingston Shopping Centre, the Grog Shoppe Pub & Restaurant at Devon House, and Alexander's at the Courtleigh Hotel & Suites on Knutsford Boulevard.
My first stop was Grog Shoppe, which is the closest thing Kingston has to an English pub. However, it's a far cry from what you can find on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean! One can only do ones best, I suppose, but are they really doing that? You'd get a better ambience in a graveyard! I remember the days when this place was buzzing. A bit of initiative from the manager, enthusiasm from the staff, and a leg up in the public relations department, and this eatery could reclaim the pizzazz it once had.
Little consolation
As for the fish and chips ... well you know when you haven't tasted a particular dish in a long time and any version of it would do? Well, that's exactly how I feel about theirs. The fish was tender enough, but completely bland, and both the batter and the French fries were burnt. The tartar sauce did not offer much consolation, and the vinegar and tomato ketchup were served in teeny stainless steel pots, to share among four. Glass bottles with small spouts need to be purchased so that customers can easily sprinkle vinegar over their chips, and each person should be given his/her own ketchup. Try squeezing enough tomato sauce out of a two- ounce container, for four servings!
Next was Cuddy'z, where the service seems to get worse each time I go. It blows my mind that these people have not yet figured out how to cater to the business lunch-time rush. And they think that's busy! Try cooking and serving food in New York City or London. So, after spending the majority of an hour's break waiting for our meals, the fish and chips arrived cold. Needless to say, I did send it back and was presented with piping hot food within a few minutes. I must admit, Cuddy'z serves the best French fries in town, and they're always generous with their portions! The breaded fish was tasty, albeit slightly greasy, but the large wedge of lemon helped to cut through that.Pretty good.
My final stop was Alexander's, which is consistent and pretty good when it comes to what I like to call 'traditional comfort food'. Initially, I was disappointed. Along with freshly hot battered snapper, there were stone cold and soggy chips. Sending it back (I know, it can be a real pain to keep doing this), they returned with a perfectly prepared plate. The batter was so delicious that I could have eaten it all on its own and the fish satisfying, succulent, and seasoned.
Even the chips could now give Cuddy'z a run for its money! With all that salt and sauce, one tends to get thirsty, but the waiters at Alexander's are not forthcoming with water, or any other drinks. It's as if there's a list of things on a service sheet, and once you've ticked a category, that job is done. Show menu: check, serve drink/water: check, take order: check, serve food: check, clear table: check, present bill: check. Work is complete! How about: continue to offer beverages throughout the meal!
Now that all the 'assault and batter' is over, I can conclude that Alexander's wins the battle of fish and chips. It's a pity the service at all three left the metaphorical taste of vinegar in my mouth!
Cuddy'z, New Kingston Shopping Centre; Grog Shoppe Pub & Restaurant, Devon House, Hope Road; Alexander's, Courtleigh Hotel & Suites, Knutsford Boulevard.
All open for lunch and dinner.
Look to spend $450-$550 on a plate of fish and chips.
