Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
In San Fernando (south Trinidad), Ali's has the best doubles ever. - Photos by Rosemary Parkinson
Trinidad is the isle of beautiful mountains, forests, rivers, calypso, steelband and some of the most amazing flora and fauna in the Caribbean. But what this country is really known for is its diverse culture that brings with it a bounty of food.
Having taken a half-hour flight from Barbados that was followed by 90 minutes going through immigration, I was in dire need of a roti. So off to Port-of-Spain we went. It was after 10:00 p.m. and roti shops give way to the women there - my favourites being the ones across from the market. The roti is made right in front of you and not only are they delicious, but small enough to have two, and I did; beef and potato with chadon beni (wild coriander) and plenty peppah!
The following day, as there was no electricity in the area of Blue Range where I was staying, we took off to the new Hyatt Regency on Wrightson Road in the heart of Port-of-Spain. We set up our mini office in their lobby but not before having ourselves a delicious breakfast, then lunch, topping it all off with various canapés and tea. The service at the Hyatt was impeccable, the view amazing (considering the hotel is built right near the rather unruly Port-of- Spain port). And the steelband man who was close by understood the power of soft, floating music to ease stress.
Brooklyn Bar
Doubles is a Trini breakfast. So naturally, once the sun had found itself burning brightly in the skies on the second, third and fourth morning of my stay, it was to Brooklyn Bar for many of those with lunch bringing the roti from Hot Shoppe. Just could not get enough.
But on my last night, we decided to try out a gourmet restaurant. So off we went to Jaffa (a cricket term for a perfect delivery) at The Oval, literally inside Trinidad's famous cricket ground in the heart of Port-of-Spain. Consisting of one very large high-ceiling room with bar and huge windows on three sides overlooking a panyard (steelband headquarters), and a very busy road called Tragarete.
For starters, I chose from the Tapas menu - vineyard snails simmered in the chef's own garlic brandy and fresh herb butter. Now, I am a snail 'peong' (meaning fanatic in Trini language) but was very disappointed in the lack of umph here. I had to add 'nuff' salt to give the sauce some strength. A better reduction was needed, quite honestly, as the snails came seemingly covered in a 'soup' rather than a sauce, and, well, sorry to say, but for me, snails should have at least a tad of garlic! For my main course, I chose (on the advice of the waiter) Long Island pan-seared duck breast with Foie Gras port sauce, wild mushroom bread pudding and glazed baby vegetables.
While the duck was rare, perfectly cooked and very tender, I was again a bit disappointed that the salt shaker once more had to be used profusely. The bread pudding left a lot to be desired, saved only by the deliciously crunchy baby vegetables.
Saving grace
Dessert gave me Dooley's cheesecake, infused with Irish toffee liqueur, served on a creamy caramel fudge sauce with almond clusters. This was the saving grace of the night. My companions ordered differently, but, unfortunately, we were all of the same opinion - while the dishes were well presented, Jaffa's chefs need to take time to taste the fare. For bland even in gourmet is just not in.
I found myself, yet again, leaving an up-market, very pricey restaurant, not angry, but kind of very disappointed. I know it's important to diversify and not just serve 'we food', even if taken up a notch. But if it is international cuisine we offer, may I say that I have eaten international, and whilst the flavours may be different, at least there is that deliciousness of taste.
To add insult to injury, in order to leave the restaurant, we had to find our own way out. Doors were closed all over the place. Finally, a worker putting up tents for a function the following day opened a large gate for us to leave the property through bits of rubbish and dirty water.
A little attention to fine details can make this restaurant the place to be when fine dining in Port-of-Spain. But right now - it's not yet ready.
Mediterranean terrine, pretty, but no taste, whatsoever.
The best Jaffa dish of all - El Paso Salad with fresh corn, black beans and Chorizo.