Janet Silvera, Senior Gleaner Writer

Chef Efrin Otero cuts cured ham at the Guinness Book of Records' oldest restaurant in the world - Botin, in Madrid, Spain. - photos by Janet Silvera Photo

WESTERN BUREAU:

Earnest Hemingway mentions Botin in two of his books; James Mitchener and Graham Green are also among the novelists who have written about Spain's, Guinness Book of Records', oldest restaurant in the world in their novels.

Owned and operated by third generation Antonio Gonzales, the entrance to Botin is quite misleading, because there is nothing exciting about this nondescript 1590's building at first glance.

According to a number of Spanish writers, "Botin looks like it has always existed and as if Adam and Eve had eaten from there, the first over 'cochifrito'".

No intrigue

The entrance offers no type of intrigue, so it is up to the hardened floors, pleasant faces and the three chefs with a total of 122 years of service to intoxicate diners.

Bending backwards and going the extra mile, proprietor Antonio Gonzales announces proudly, "our speciality is roasted suckling pigs and baby lamb."

The pigs are not allowed to live more than three weeks and the lamb, no more than 40 days. "Otherwise, they are too tough and the fat is too heavy. Fat must be light and the skin must be crispy," he remarked, speaking about the pig, adding that his way of cooking was the traditional Castilian roast.

Botin's method of cooking has attracted the royal family of Spain, who Gonzales said has eaten there three times in the last 10 years.

Located near the busy Plaza Mayor, the most popular historic centre in Madrid, Botin has four levels, which include a basement where diners and the wine cellar (the cave) share a special neighbourly relationship.

Carrying no fewer than 120 varieties of wines, housed in a brick cellar dating back to 1560, Botin stocks wines using the fermented infusion technique from grapes grown in Spain. A smaller amount is imported from France, Italy and Portugal.

Continuing the tradition

Serving an average of 500 people every day, chefs Ruben Sanchez and Juan Maneiro, both veterans in the kitchen, told Food they started in the small kitchen from as early as age 15.

"I am here 44 years now," declared Sanchez, "and I have continued the tradition that Antonio Gonzalez's grandfather started."

Traditional dishes are the chefs' speciality and if asked about the evolution of new dishes, the look you are likely to get explains it all.

The chefs beam with pride just speaking about the grandfather of the business, and their smiles become bigger just saying that his traditional ways of cooking live on in the kitchen. The original wood fire oven dating back to the 18th century is still in place.

Black sausages prepared at Madrid's Botin Restaurant.

Croquette, the way the world's oldest restaurant knows how to do.